Loan Guides • Conventional
Guides · Conventional Loan Guide

Conventional Loan Guide

Conventional loans are the backbone of today’s mortgage market. This guide unpacks how they work: down payment options, mortgage insurance, credit expectations, and when a Conventional loan can be your most flexible, cost-effective choice.

For many well-qualified buyers, move-up buyers & investors Down payments as low as 3% on some primary homes, 5–20%+ common Standard financing not backed by FHA, VA or USDA
Smart calculators for real-life Conventional decisions
Use the monthly payment calculator to test Conventional scenarios in real time — different price points, down payment amounts, taxes, insurance, and mortgage insurance options. Then we can review the results together and see how they line up with your budget and timeline.
Coaching insight

Who a Conventional loan is usually a good fit for

Conventional loans are designed for a broad range of buyers and homeowners. They reward strong, stable finances and can be very flexible across property types and long-term plans.

They may be a strong fit if you:

  • Have a solid credit profile and on-time payment history.
  • Can document consistent income (W-2, self-employed, or a mix) that supports the payment.
  • Plan to bring a down payment of at least 3–5% on a primary home, or more for second homes and investments.
  • Want options for second homes or investment properties, not just a primary residence.
  • Prefer a structure where mortgage insurance can eventually go away when equity grows.

Conventional may be less ideal if credit is heavily bruised, income is hard to document, or cash to close is extremely tight. In those cases, we’ll often model FHA, down payment assistance, or other programs alongside Conventional so you can compare.

How it works

Down payment, mortgage insurance & closing cost basics

Down payment on Conventional loans

  • Some primary homebuyers may qualify with as little as 3% down, depending on the program.
  • 5–20% down is very common for primary homes, with higher minimums for second homes and investments.
  • Putting 20% or more down can remove monthly mortgage insurance and may improve pricing.

Mortgage insurance (PMI)

  • If you put less than 20% down, PMI usually applies to Conventional loans.
  • PMI can be structured in different ways: monthly, single-premium, or split, depending on your goals.
  • Unlike FHA, Conventional PMI can often be removed once your loan balance drops to around 80% of the home’s value (subject to investor rules).

Closing costs & seller credits

  • You’ll still have standard closing costs: appraisal, title, lender fees, taxes, insurance, and reserves.
  • Conventional loans allow the seller to contribute toward closing costs, within percentage limits based on your down payment and occupancy type.
  • We’ll map out how to combine seller credits, lender credits, and your cash so the numbers are predictable on closing day.

There’s no one-size-fits-all rule like “always put 20% down.” We’ll look at how different down payment levels affect payment, cash to close, and long-term flexibility.

Approval basics

Credit, debt-to-income & pricing: what really matters

Credit profile

Conventional guidelines tend to reward higher credit scores with better pricing. The automated underwriting systems look at your full picture: scores, depth of history, recent behavior, and overall stability. Cleaning up small items and paying down revolving balances can sometimes move the needle on terms.

Debt-to-income ratio (DTI)

Lenders look closely at your DTI—how much of your gross monthly income goes toward debts and your new housing payment. The target range varies by scenario, but generally, lower DTIs and stronger reserves strengthen your approval and can open more options.

You don’t need to memorize any of the formulas. The big idea: steady income, manageable debts, and a healthy credit pattern usually unlock better Conventional choices.

Property & occupancy

What kinds of homes work well with Conventional?

Conventional loans can support a wide range of property and occupancy types, including:

  • Primary residences (single-family homes, condos, townhomes, PUDs)
  • Second homes (vacation or getaway properties that you occupy part of the year)
  • Investment properties, including many 1–4 unit properties
  • Condos and townhomes, subject to project and warrantability guidelines
  • 2–4 unit properties where you may live in one unit and rent the others, or hold as investment (guidelines vary)

Occupancy type (primary, second home, or investment) affects minimum down payment, reserves, and pricing. We’ll walk through how each option impacts your plan so the property you pick and the loan structure work together.

Compare options

Pros & trade-offs vs. FHA and VA

Where Conventional often shines

Conventional loans can be an excellent fit when you want flexibility and long-term options:

  • PMI that can often be removed later as equity grows.
  • Strong options for second homes and investment properties.
  • Potentially better long-term cost vs. FHA when credit and down payment are solid.
  • Ability to use a variety of fixed and adjustable-rate structures.
Where other options might fit better

FHA or VA may be a better fit if:

  • You need more flexible credit than Conventional guidelines allow.
  • You’re eligible for VA and want to minimize cash to close and avoid monthly MI.
  • You’re using a specialized program (down payment assistance, renovation, etc.) that pairs best with FHA or other options.

When we build your plan, we’ll usually show Conventional side-by-side with at least one other program, so you’re not guessing which is “best”—you’ll see it in the numbers.

Real-world example

Move-up buyer using Conventional with 10% down

Example scenario (for education only)

Imagine a family who already owns a home and is moving up to a property that better fits their current season of life. They have strong credit, steady income, and equity they can roll into the next purchase—but they’d rather keep some savings as a cushion.

In a case like this, we might compare:

  • Conventional with 10% down and monthly PMI that can fall off later
  • Conventional with 20% down to remove PMI and lower the payment
  • Conventional with 5% down if they prefer to keep even more cash on hand

Sometimes a slightly higher payment is worth it to keep more cash in the bank. Other times, the math favors a larger down payment. The key is looking at the next 5–7 years, not just month one.

Next steps

What to have ready when we look at Conventional options

You don’t need a perfect file to start. But having these items ready helps us move quickly and gives you clear Conventional numbers:

  • Income details – recent pay stubs, W-2s, and possibly tax returns if you’re self-employed or have variable income.
  • Employment history – at least the last two years, including any gaps or changes.
  • Assets – checking, savings, retirement funds, and any gift funds you plan to use.
  • Debts & obligations – credit cards, auto loans, student loans, alimony/child support, etc.
  • Comfortable payment range – not just what you can be approved for, but what fits your real budget.
  • Timeline & property goals – how soon you want to buy, how long you expect to keep the home, and whether it might later become a rental.

Want to pressure-test the payment before we talk? You can use my mortgage payment calculator to rough in estimated payments at different price points, taxes, insurance levels, and rate scenarios. It’s for estimates only — we’ll still build your final Conventional plan using live pricing and your full approval file.

The goal isn’t just “get approved.” It’s to structure the Conventional loan around your life— your family, your cash flow, and your long-term plans.

Smart questions

Questions to ask about any Conventional loan quote

As you compare Conventional options (and Conventional vs. other programs), these questions help cut through the noise:

  • What’s my total monthly payment, and what can change over time? (Taxes, insurance, HOA, and any mortgage insurance.)
  • How is my mortgage insurance structured? (Monthly, single-premium, split, and how long it’s expected to stay.)
  • How do my down payment options change the numbers? (3–5% vs. 10% vs. 20%+ in terms of payment, cash to close, and MI.)
  • What does this look like over 5–7 years? (Not just what it costs to get in, but what it costs to stay.)
  • How does this compare to FHA or VA for my actual scenario? (If you’re eligible for those programs.)
  • What are my options later if rates move or my situation changes? (Refinance, recast, or staying put.)

If you can answer those clearly, you’re ahead of most buyers and making decisions with your eyes open.

Ready to see what a Conventional loan looks like for you?
We’ll take your real numbers, comfort zone, and goals—and show you how Conventional compares to your other options in plain English.
This guide is for general educational purposes only and does not constitute a commitment to lend or a full summary of all program guidelines. Eligibility, terms, and pricing depend on your complete application, credit profile, property, and current program availability. Conventional loan guidelines and investor overlays may change. All loans subject to approval. Equal Housing Lender.